January 2011 Biodynamic® / Organic Selections for Purevinewines.com
“Evening land….may quickly produce the greatest Pinot Noir and Chardonnay yet made in the New World—particularly if one measures greatness by the standards of Burgundy’s Côte d’Or.” - Mannie Berk, The Rare Wine Co
This month starts not only a new year but a new decade, and we’re kicking it off by keeping it local. But fear not, Francophiles, this month’s red has got Old-World chops. Take Oregon’s Willamette Valley’s most expressive terroir, add legendary Burgundian winemaker Dominique Lafon and Master Sommelier Larry Stone, stir in some serious local talent in winemaker Isabelle Meunier, and there’s a recipe for excitement: Evening Land Winery. With the goal of sourcing the best Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vineyards on the West Coast, they secured three heritage vineyards in three very different American wine regions: the Willamette Valley, the Sonoma Coast, and the Santa Rita Hills. In total, they have 120 acres of organic and biodynamically farmed vines producing 13 estate wines, each expressing its own unique terroir. In Oregon, Evening Land has acquired the renowned Seven Springs Vineyard, known for producing benchmark Pinot Noir. Isabelle Meunier is guided by Dominique Lafon, one of Burgundy’s top producers and owner of Domaine des Comtes Lafon, a legendary estate that produces bottles costing thousands. Says Lafon, “I have tasted Oregon Pinot Noir, and while it is not the same as wines in Burgundy, Oregon is close in style to what we do. For me, it is about elegance, purity, and silkiness, not about alcohol and overripe fruit.” Piqued your interest? Check out our website or the enclosed list for other Evening Land wines.
Our second wine this month is also from the Eola-Amity Hills AVA in Oregon. The Love and Squalor Riesling comes from vines planted on their own rootstock, which is quite remarkable in an age where phylloxera has forced most vineyards into grafting (to protect the vines from this root louse). Love and Squalor winemaker Matt Berson is also assistant winemaker at Brooks Winery, and his experience shows. Using the least invasive means, the grapes were gently pressed whole-cluster and fermented in small stainless steel drums using five different yeast strains—including a native cultivar. You won’t find this off-dry, luscious Riesling outside of Oregon. Only 185 cases of this biodynamically farmed wine were produced. Enjoy!
Wines:
Love & Squalor
Riesling
100% Riesling
Region: Eola Hills Vineyard, Willamette Valley, OR.
Vintage: 2009
This is another prime example of how great the potential for the Riesling varietal can be in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. All the pure and recognizable Riesling characteristics are alive and dazzling—minerality and stone with crisp green apple and a touch of peachy sweetness to balance out the remarkable acidity. A rich lusciousness comes through mid-palate while retaining its freshness and vitality.
Evening Land
Seven Springs Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir
Region: Seven Springs Vineyard, Willamette Valley, OR.
Vintage: 2008
This medium-bodied Oregon Pinot wafts aromatics of sweet rose hips and red berries. The palate is more focused with an earthy touch and a silky fineness, a luxurious characteristic found only in the delicate Pinot Noir grape. Aged 16 months in 33% new oak, with moderate tannins, this wine is accessible now, but also should evolve beautifully in the next couple of years.
This month’s food and wine pairing is … Raclette!
It’s been pretty cold around here and my spirit for cooking elaborate meals was well saturated last month. That means this is the right time for Raclette. I’m happy to report that both of this month’s wine selections go quite well with it. To do this right, you really need the specialized tabletop griddle w/ broiler. Raclette, never quite as popular as fondue, is still common enough that any kitchen supply store should carry the cook top; it’s also a reliable thrift store find.
Basically, with this dinner dish you all sit around a table with the cooker in the middle, and each person heats slices of cheese (I prefer Comte but it’s fun to try 3 or 4 different ones) on these special utensils under the broiler. Once it’s nice and melted, you scrape it onto your plate or directly onto bread and eat it. On the griddle top, you can put sausages, vegetables, and potatoes. Side dishes like pickled things go well with the food but do no justice to the wine. While the Riesling wine is an obvious pairing, the pinot from Evening Land offers layers of depth with its dark cherry fruit. Traditionally, an evening of Raclette is followed by a glass of cherry brandy so the pinot delivers on the tail end. Try it and just follow the basic instructions that come with the cooker.