March Newsletter
“I don’t know if you can taste Biodynamics, but I do know you can taste passion, the single most important ingredient of all great wines.” Ben Giliberti, February 21, 2007, The Washington Post
The key word here is passion. Passion for the vine in all forms –or more simply, winemakers and farmers paying attention to and caring about the vine and its surroundings. No, biodynamic winemakers are not star worshiping, cow horn burying freaks (–well some are, and we love them for it). It is the passion behind their methods that is reflected in their wine. Call it what you want – the result is good sustainable wine!
March Wines
Emiliana Coyam
This month’s red wine reflects the passion that has spread to Chile thanks to Alvaro Espinoza’s devotion to organics and biodynamics. Educated in Bordeaux, he worked at biodynamic vineyards in California before heading to Chile to introduce biodynamic farming and winemaking there. Alvaro Espinoza isn’t your average Chilean winemaker. “Traditional viticulture artificializes the vineyards, creating an artificial medium - the result is that the wines are similar to those from other places,” says Alvaro, “…biodynamics facilitates the expression of terroir.” In addition to the traditional composting, many types of vegetation are grown between the vines to provide nutrients and early pest detection. Llamas roam the vines eating weeds and fertilizing, and mobile chicken coops are dispatched to allow chickens and roosters to eat vine pests as soon as they are detected (also providing free eggs for the crew).
This month we feature one of Alvaro Espinoza’s coolest blends. The name “Coyam” translates as "Chilean oak" in the local dialect and refers to the trees that grow all over the Colchagua Valley where the grapes are grown. Syrah, Cabernet, Merlot, Carmenere, and a touch of Malbec and Mourvedre round out this beautiful wine. The result is a blended red wine that is completely approachable now, with a palate of dark fruits, subtle tobacco and spices, and a pleasant finish. This wine is very food friendly. Enjoy it with a nice meal.
Michelle Quenioux Domaine de Veilloux
Our white wine this month, the Les Veilleurs, comes from the heart of the Loire valley, a pioneering region in the biodynamic movement. Unlike Alvaro, who is considered a bit maverick for bringing biodynamics to Chile, Michel Quenioux is preaching to the choir. In the Loire valley the biodynamic and organic movements have deep roots, as do the 20- 40 year old vines in the Cheverny appellation where this month’s selection is produced. The Quenioux chateau is over a 1,000 years old. The grape press is described as “old, gentle, and slow,” and is part of a gravity flow winery which minimizes damage to the wine. The blend of ½ Sauvignon and ½ Menu Pineau, in combination with 12 months of barrel aging (unusual for a white), gives this wine an uncommon, but not overly buttery depth, thanks to a lemon zest aroma and great mineral finish.
Recipe of the Month
Pan-Seared Scallops w/ Meyer Lemon Cream Sauce.
This dish can be an appetizer or combined w/ pasta. A small mound of angel hair pasta on each plate - tossed in butter and fresh tarragon would do well here. A spring vegetable would also add nice color. Serves 4 people
Ingredients:
- 5 medium large scallops per person (around 2 pounds) 1 cup white wine - try this months selection
- Minced zest from 4 meyer lemons reserve juice 1/2 stick butter
- 1 cup heavy cream Olive oil
- 1 cup sliced shallots Salt and White pepper
1. Fry up around 1/3 cup of the shallot in butter until crispy. Remove from butter, place on a paper towel, season w/ salt and hold until the end.
2. In saucepan, combine wine and remaining shallots and bring to a boil. reduce heat to medium and add zest. Add cream and season w/ salt and pepper. Simmer mixture for several minutes before removing from heat and passing through a strainer and discarding solids/shallot. Whisk in lemon juice to taste.
3. Clean and trim scallops if needed. Sprinkle scallops with salt and pepper and sear in oil over high heat. You are trying to make a nice golden brown crust on either end of each scallop. Be careful not to overcook them; they will start splitting open if overcooked. Transfer seared scallops to plate.
4. Divide sauce onto plates, place scallops over sauce, and top each scallop w/ some crispy shallot.
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